Tour Mont Blanc Summer July 10th -20th July, 2019

JULY 10th-24th in Europe plus 6 days of rest and sightseeing thrown in! Total distance walked 130kms (the rest of TMB, 40km by bus)
Options cable car from chamonix to courmayeur. All sections of the TMB can be done on day trips starting from nearby towns.
Travel insurance before you leave your country.

Pre Trip preparation - Weigh your back pack!

2 x Merino detachable long sleeves tops for wicking/breathability - so you won't  suffer a chill at high altitudes where it is always much much colder and windy - 2° after walking up for 3 hours, you sweat so bad and it will get freezing cold in minutes!
Biodegradable wipes  - Leave no trace policy meaning you are required to bury them and at meat 100m from water sources.
(Other months require different body insulation needs of course)

[You don't wish to have a wet and freezing cold shirt on your back!]

One warm fleecy cardigan and a windproof WATERPROOF ( not water resistant) jacket and a raincover for your back pack.

Merino liner and socks with shoes broken into.
2 undies
1 absorbent sarong acts as dress and towel.
I bed liner
No more than 50ml of sunscreen & lip balm
Small snacks enough to last one day.

Replenish along the way.
Shops in chamonix, les houches, Les chapieux, courmayeur, champex lac, Col De la forclaz, trient, Argentiere to replenish and eat! ATM in all these places except Les Chapieux. Bring enough euros from  Australia . Saves you 100+ AUD especially via ATM withdrawals and,  currency exchange in Milan.

Usually enroute there are restaurants/refuge (refugio)/chalet where food are served, every village/tap/ running creeks are good for collection of yummy tasting water. 

Only 1x600ml water filter bottle is about enough for refilling along the way.

Turn on n Strava/relive.com for a record of walk.

Download maps of tour mont blanc via gaia ap, view ranger before you go!

Join tour mont Blanc Facebook groups for more information and ask questions and recommendations.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/MontBlancTour/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/293501884844853/

#First day  arrival 10th of July 2019 in Geneva 10 ish….am
Pre book Swisstours.com for bus to chamonix for best fare

Alpybus 45 euros at counter. Prebook online only 25 euros. Or Swisstours for 18 euros.

Chamonix Lodge one nights stay pre booked as arrival time is late afternoon.

Also check in at most accommodations are after 4pm at the end of a days hike.
One should also be able to travel by train from Geneve-  Cornavin Gare to chamonix – takes much longer. 3hrs plus.

#2nd day - TMB FIRST DAY Next morning 11th of July.
Chamonix lodge ( allow you to cook)  provide only continental breaky 45 euros- includes pain au chocolate, bread and Madeleines – yummy madeleines.

So I decided to pack some for lunch with cheese that I bought from supermache – President French soft cheese.

Took bus towards les houches ( was given a complimentary chamonix bus ticket until 25th July – which I later used for ride from Argentière).

Stopped at Bellevue ( must try the croissant at the bakery close by) for cable car up to start of TMB trailhead – right usual track/ left to variant - variant are harder trails.

Col du tricot/col du bomhomme. Variant. The Col are passes on Alps.

Very nice start under spruce trees/ exposed roots, cliff side walking trails – thus first wow factor of the French alps.

Crossed a hanging bridge.  Went to the 2 cols ( mountain passes).

Saw how the natural fertility of the French Alpean soil encourages wild flowers to bloom of every kind – astilbe, thistles, rhododendrons covered a massive area of the slopes.

[Temperature enjoyable 25°.

It was perfect sunshine on the slopes thought out the 10 days on the trail except one  day on the walk pass Refugio Elena towards Switzerland which was just so misty but no rain. So blessed!

Week after I left there were thunderstorms rain hail and even Tour De France was stopped for a day!] {This is a note to mean weather up the alpine is always unpredictable}

Continued from 1st day of Walk on TMB - White and pastel pink - cows parsleys, little blue bells, little blue butterflies, ferns, yellow globes, purple, white wild daisies, etc etc.

Went down valley to De la Miage for blue berry/ cream cheese pies and coffee. Yum.
Then walking uphill again for a while, then down again to les contamines.

On the way to Les Contamines, I met some people travelling with donkeys to carry their bags.

What a good way to enjoy the walk and the Alps.

That night French dinner of Spanish Paella chicken (this is the only piece of chicken for a week!) And huge prawns at Camping Le Pontet- Montjoie  E55 – includes breaky and dinner ( a note to mention that other breaky can be organized with the same amount paid which is included with accommodation).

Another 25 minutes walk from centre of Les Contamines.  A bit further away but that will be on the way to day 2 on the trails towards Les Chapieux for the next day.

Breakfast- typical bread, one boiled egg, swiss cheese and slice of ham.

Shown fellow diners the AhHuat 3 in one hazelnut tea with sugar cane coffee sachets from Malaysia  (insomnia after 7pm drinking them). They had a good laugh when they see a Chinese guy on the packet. I joked that Ahhuat is my father!

In the meanwhile, the French cheese from Chamonix was still in my bag, forgotten but thinking there has been cheese fragments in  my back pack as my bag had started to smell a bit bad.

I shook my back pack with all my might and wipe it down… smell is still there! Ughh!

Shaking the bag did not get rid of the bad cheese smell until the cheese package was discovered a few days later!

Meanwhile, I'm still carrying them – the stale pain au chocolate, President brie and a flat Madeleine – lugging then up many 2000m  climbs daily ascents and descents.



2nd DAY ON TMB 12th of July from camping le pontet  Accommodation - - went the variant way unknowingly towards col des fours - 34400 steps for this day .

Started out early around 8ish am.
Followed a couple towards Notre Dame de la gorge, kept on going uphill, pass cows with big bells, streams of melting snow which throughout has supplied daily water for the walk.

At every little village there is a water source with splendid tasting cool refreshing water. Whenever there is no running water, ice was collected. So lessen the load for water is 1 litre = 1kilo. I was using the collapsible water filter bottle.

It was hard work going uphill without relenting for more than 2 hours pass De la Gorge Notre Dame. {Took photo of a guy on horseback who I later met again at Champex Lac}

On this particular day, while walking on the valley it was so pretty and nice with cows bells, sun shining… I was happy and in the moment and I wrote another day for adventure!

I sure did because I was lost later in the day!

Passed by cows with different sized bells on each cow. Thus each cow making different bell pitch sounds.

What an orchestra! Lovely sounds.  Great accompaniment on any walk.

Then the climb up to Col Du Balme.

Reaching the day's peak was an achievement, crossed many snow fields down and up.

At the top there was a White sign denoting 

Col Des Fours
Chalet des Tuffs
Col la croix

Very tired by then time was around 2pm after almost 6 hours on the trail. Too early to check in and I have more time in the lovely sunshine to keep walking and so I did!

Close to the top there is a Refugio to the right and a track leading there. This is the usual route. Thinking this track is just leading to the Refugio, I took the left route!

Looking down into the valley slightly to the left slope there was a chalet/refugio of some sort & besides there was a group about 2kms ahead - I was thinking since there was only one Chalet Des Tuffs those hikers will only head there right? Wrong!

So I followed them. Sun reappeared and was comforting.

Until the group disappeared before me, and the single track led to 3 tracks that I realized I was lost and started to curse!

However I chose the track that most likely led to the cliff side lodge for the night except that after 1 hour of looking for it, I can't find it.

No phone reception/no gps map, even the paper map doesn't show 3 tracks! ( lesson learned - download map/ book accommodation at Les contamines before this section!

Instead I stumbled upon a war bunker, empty farm houses, crossed down many sloppy meadows full of tall bushes, jumping over little creeks, under fences, fell over a couple of times and slightly bruised my knees.  Then I saw cows and more farmhouses.

Saw a car down below on the road and prayed that there will be one to pick me up…ah…no…why stop at one car…yes please there will be many cars.

Tired and hungry…first thing – first thought is eating a whole French farmer's roast chicken! ( this set the predisposition looking for Poulet Roti for the duration of TMB!). Lips were burnt cherry red . After this day, sunscreen was a constant to prevent burnt lips.

Then I saw cows, milk truck, people far off and a cheesemaker who had just arrived on les chapieux transdev bus!

Bonjour! Bonjour! Bonjour! Gave them my Y sign for help on the alps.

As I went up on the bus, I looked out and saw Les Mottets…a lot of hikers aim for the day .
I got off the bus and asked the cheese maker if I  can stay there for the night. No. Sorry.

There is a refugio 20mins down the road he said.

A couple of hikers rocked up and  said that that refugio is already full. Oh oh…

Well what do you know…another private taxi came along and charged $10 to bring me to Auberge de la nova, Les Chapieux for the night.  55E.

Soup starters, stewed Beef cheeks for main and panna cotta with blue berry coulis. Yum!

However the challenging walk this day was necessary for after the 3rd day, I found my climbing legs and devised hiking plans to achieve steep climbs.


#3rd day TMB 13th of July CROSSING THE ITALIAN BORDER

[Plan for the day is  - take bus from les chapieux until the end of the road (Ville de Glaciers) and hike until Col de la Seigne and go down to La Visaille in Val Veny]

From here SAVDA bus to Courmayeur to rest as fellow hikers said this is a very nice town you rest and enjoy in]

Next morning at 8ish the driver took 8 of us hikers from the same accommodation for 4 Euros each person.
[or 180 euros per person to Courmayeur or split that if there are more passengers].

The private taxi coordinated by the hostess from the Auberge from Les Chapieux to Les Mottets junction enable us to avoid the road bitumen walk from Les Chapieux – some hikers take this part to warm up their legs for the walk upwards towards Col de la Seigne - the border of Italy.

Most people take the Transdev bus next to the toilet block.

The walk up was as usual zigzaging and the view was fabulous as usual. It was punishing walk up the Alp, as usual my climb was slow, my legs still ached from the previous day of 34400 steps - half of these was uphill.

Spectacular welcoming view  at Les Contesmaria (spelling ?) Right at the top, overlooking the Italian valley below. Really proud to cross this border. I rewarded myself my resting at the balcony for longer than usual.

This is a Toilet visit here that one is required to squat! and extraordinarily special, spectacular view overlooking the valley towards Refugio Elisabetta ( stay at elisabetta highly recommended and to book in advance).

On the valley walk towards Refugio elisabetta was particularly lovely, relaxing and fast running streams  running on both sides of the track.

Well any tracks downhill always welcome after many kms of climb up!

Then Lac du miage is a worthwhile visit and nice lunch at Col du Cobame.

After a nice quiche lunch and hmmmm first real Italian coffee, the Walk is another hour on bitumen downhill, until De la Vsaille for Fermata (stop) 52 - 20 minutes bus ride to Courmayeur. I love Courmayeur!

Courmayeur  library has wifi – got wifi password connection and sit at steps to get connection.

As a matter of fact, it is Only requiring switching data roaming on and off on phone to activate roaming. It has been automatic in France and Switzerland.

DuParc restaurant serves great food and there's Carrefour’s supermarket. Tuna sandwiches are just 2E.

Hotel Croux recommended.  Though Pensione Venezia is economical.

Courmayeur is a very nice town surrounded by alps.

#4th & #5th  day on TMB - 13th & 14th of July – 2 days of rest in Courmayeur.

Second day in courmayeur, I took a bus return 39E to see the Duomo in Milan- 7hrs bus return journey day trip. Later someone said you can climb the Duomo. If I knew then, I could have done the climb!

It was Wow to see they Duomo as I exited the metro to this magnificently built cathedral. Didn't see much of the city..
Courmayeur still beckons.


#6th day on TMB 4th day of walking 15TH OF JULY CROSSING SWISS BORDER

From Courmayeur, I took a bus to Arp Nouva – then walk up up and up pass refugio bonatti, Refugio Elena (should be a nice stay there), more up and up in the mist after polenta and venison stew lunch and Belly button peaches.
Didn't get to eat much nuts, dates or instant noodles.

All thrown away at the end to lessen the weight on my back pack.

No need to bring tons of toothpaste/ sunscreen!

This is one of the most challenging walk of all. Weather forecast was rain though it held out during my hike.

Then finally crossing the Swiss Alps seeing the typical white and red stripes added to signs, white poles with red and red and white  painted on rocks.

Then as usual walking down the valley, to Col Ferret valley – I stayed at Col Des Fenètre with a bath tub to cure sore muscles.

But not before crossing snowfield, streams, lovely cows with musical bells.

Much needed bath at accommodation. 100E for the night.

Clean and lovely. Lasagna for dinner and fresh Venetta with crunchy Swiss thins for dessert.

Next morning they packed lunch for me for 15 euro – apple/ bread with cheese and bread with a bottle of water – unnecessary!
Especially the water in a plastic bottle.

An apple or 3 dates + a few nuts are sufficient for me to tie over till dinner as I always eat when there is a Refugio at mountain tops to also rest and take in the sceneries.

Besides I intended to rest one night at Champex. Plenty to eat there.

Noticed Swiss flags flying and huge cross with words DIEU NOTRE DAME ESPERANCE. And of course running water from a water spout.

Took bus from accommodation to Osieres Terminus hotel.
Note:- This bus ride bypass La Fouly to Champex . Most hikers find this section rather boring. So I skipped this  section.


#7th day on TMB REST DAY IN OSIERES/CHAMPEX LAC 16th of July

Just as well, next day lying next to champex lac. Slept and snore. And waited until 6:30pm for…Poulet Roti!

(Still yearning for roast chicken after the day I was lost with the imagery of a whole farmers' roast chicken still manifested in my mind.

Stayed at Terminus hotel (from here you can go to see St Bernards dogs)…saying no more to bread. Instead requested for fried eggs. 7.50 euros for 2 fried eggs! That's almost 13 AUD.

Took a bus from Osières to Champex  Lac. On the way there were Alps on both sides of the bus.


#8th Day on TMB 5th day of walking  17th of July .

From Champex Lac – walk was  rather relaxed and lovely with rushing streams and villagers houses On both sides of the road,  with red windows, lush vegetables garden and flapping swiss flags.

Very soon, as usual, is the days order of walking Tour Mont  Blanc …it is going uphill and uphill, arriving up a pass - Bovine , then to Col De Balme hut –a place for coffee with fantastic view.

So  before going down Ferret valley (again almost the same pattern) and a bit of climb up to a sweet hotel called Hotel Col De la Forclaz for the night.

This hotel is rather nice.  I booked that morning and asked if they serve Poulet roti. And that night they served Poulet Roti! Nothing wrong with asking right, even with limited French?!.

Indeed it was a lovely surprise – chicken with cauliflower bake and cubed char grilled roast buttered potatoes. Dessert was ice creams. Always very tired and hungry at the end of the day.

#9th TMB - 6th day of  walking 18th  of July

Hiking from col de la forclaz to tre le champ is CROSSING BACK INTO FRANCE and it is a big thing for me.

In the morning, I discovered there were campers and yurts next to the hotel. The hotel is charming.

From Hotel Col de la Forclaz, it was a walk downwards towards La Peuty.

While walking down, keep on looking out for the left hand sign which requires hikers too the a very sharp turn on right down the valley (easy to miss! Don't walk with head down!).

After days of walking, the usual sign for TMB are yellow with a diamond outline in black.  Or the lime green with black TMB print enclosed in a circular arrow. Sometimes there was faded yellow or green paint and that's it.

Walking pass the La Peuty camping ground, one get to see more yurts there but not before seeing the fromage des chevrè suppliers the goats! (Didn't I mention there were chickens in  the enclosure before reaching Hotel De la Forclaz the night before?!)

It was from then onwards a gentle upward, then 2 hours of zig zag, then more uphill until you get to see a glimpse of a hut on top of the Alp. There were many running water on this route.

To the right,  Cyclist were crossing an icy patch towards Les Steppes.

Crossing the Swiss/France border was fun – it was a perfect day . Climb wasn't that bad as by then I have found a way of climbing 50 meters and rest. 50 meters and rest.

By then, I found a way of enjoying my scenery without a care in the world - I finally relaxed.

My legs were not painful anymore because I gave them ample rest.

There is a water spout just before reaching the top of the French/Swiss border – there is also a Refugio there.

Had chicken (Poulet Roti!!) with salad and potatoes with tarte aux pommes(say this quickly!)

On the border was a stone – swiss on one side while France on the other. CROSSING BACK INTO FRANCE.

From there, it was mostly downhill as usual towards end of day. The view was so special and spectacular to say the least as one descents into the valley.

In the valley below, I kept on walking along Naturelle Resère for a couple of hours downwards before reaching Le Moulin ( another is called Auberge) for the night.

There were many signs to various places – Le  Tour, Argentiere, le Flegere to name some where one can spend the night.

Stayed at Le Moulin, Tre Le champ – zucchini salad followed by yummy sausage with baked potatoes, onions and cumin.

Then retreated to the games room. Everybody was friendly and on a mission to complete the TMB.


Played Caracol 5 cards each with the Frenchies
Each player has 5 cards to start with one ready open card for the 1st player.
When anyone has doubles or triples or consecutives of 3 or more, they can place them on the pile in order to collect one card – from the list of  discarded card from the previous player (or any card from the stack of 2 cards or more by the previous player) or from the stack.
Each player has freedom of choice to play or not to play when it get to their turn.
If anybody has 10 or less points,   the player called out “Caracol”- when it gets to be his or her turn to  deal.  When that round comes back to the Caracol speaker, all cards are open to score.
The caracol person must have the least to score 0. He can get beaten hy others who has lesser point than he or she.
If the total score is 101, the player is eliminated.
If the player has 100 it is reduced to 50, to continue playing

Next morning Breaky was freshly baked croissant – I ate 2. So the owner has to rebake one more! Without realizing I ate someone's share. Paid for it. Ate 5 rectangles of butter for energy.




#10th day on trail- 7th day TMB hike 19th of a July
from tre le champ to Du lac blanc ( wow!)
The hike with the most wow factor is this walk so far and it is the most challenging.
The morning started from Le Moulin ( valley accommodation)- meant a walk up for 3.5 hours.
Up to the road and up more ( part of it almost the same way I came down yesterday)and  more towards Bovine, when it comes to the ladders…2 sections right next to each other with a sharp drop on there cliff side!
Wishing this is it – the most talked about ladders climb.
What do you know?! There were 3 more sections of  these ladders!
There was one single ladder with at least 20 rungs joined to an wooden bridge over a crevice.

I chickened out and decided to climb the crevice instead going under the wooden bridge, took off my backpack , and climbed up on the short bridge.
While climbing I was thinking that it would have been a nightmare to climb downwards, facing the sharp drop off the cliffs!
At Col Des cheresys, the refugio Lac Blanc (must book this overnighter in advance. It would have been lovely to relax and stay here!) Came into view.
It looked a long way up and it was!! (Note: to avoid ladders climb one can take the scenic route from Col Les Montets or from a track from Argentiere).
There is a restaurant/Refugio Lac Blanc next to a beautiful lake on top.
There are 2 beautiful lakes where one can lie to read a book.
First is stunning and picturesque against the backdrop of icy caped Alps.
Lac Blanc is right on top. There is a track that pass the refugio to go to chamonix they say in four hours.
As always 4 hours up is 6 hours for me!
Downwards I managed to hit similar time.
At Des Cheresys there is an easier track that goes right as you return downwards towards argentière. Well, this is easier said then done.

I must have missed a turning and to my horror, it was the same way that I climbed up!

Eeeeek…. Those ladders but downwards!!

After that it was all good and thrilled to achieve the days eventful happenings. So the day's plan is to walk to Argentiere and a take train from there to chamonix for the night.

I couldn't find board at Chamonix lodge where I need to collect a day back pack where I left behind some unnecessary items for TMB.

Therefore I ended up staying in lovely argentière – Le Belvedere (clean & friendly) for the night 19E from Booking. Com

It was so nice and safe there. I felt happy to be with the friendly locals.

Within good walking distance to supermarket – bought salmon terrine, salmon , blueberries, raspberries and salad for dinner.

Argentière is not far from tre le champ, le tour or chamonix. As a matter of fact, they are within very close bus/train rides from each other.

I skipped Argentiere to chamonix walk and decided to take the bus. By then I'm, I have enough of Alps and decided to go to another city.

#11th  day on Europe trip 20th of July – one night In Lyon

After the walk up to Lac Blanc, ladders and all, I decided that I have enough of the Alps.

And contemplating to visit other European cities.

One of the hotel guests happen to be from Paris and he advised avoiding North Paris for safety. So my plans for my next few days were settled.

Next day reaching Chamonix, I decided to go to Lyons 26E.

I reached Gare Perrache in Lyon and walked all the way to Alter'hotel for 45 minutes with my heavy back pack.

Next day my phone decided not to wake up again.

Alter'hostel’s is too hot to stay in summer.

Noticed commuters on electric scooters on Lyon and Paris. I long to go on one.

However,  dead phone means no google play means no play scooters, so more walking time!

The phone failed to be switched on by repair shop.  Phone Reparation shops.

Lost all passwords including as Google. Lost all Tour Mont Blanc photos!

Can't remember Google password…no WhatsApp, WeChat, Messenger or Google play!

#12th  & 13th day in Europe 21st & 22nd of July

Fellow hostel guest (from Istanbul) was going towards a train station on metro where there are more phone repair shops. So he showed me the way.

Phone repair was unsuccessful. So with time to kill, I walked all the way to the central station for train to Paris.

Luckily SNCF De part Dieu ( train station) at Lyons accepted my word, passport and I told him my seat number 111 and time of  departure.


#21st and 22nd July 2019 stay in Paris

Bought very fast train 101E Lyon to Paris.

2 nights at Hotel Du Parc.
Since I can't get into gmail I have lost Hotel Du parc’s address!

A fellow traveler helped searched the address for me to show the Parisien Taxi driver.

It was the wrong Du Park ( meaning hotel at the park – there are many Du Parcs! Hotel in Paris!) -  and also many bus 30 going on different direction – confusing left and right side of the road buses to and from Du Parc Saint Charles – walking distance to shops and metro.

First experience of suburban Parisian life. 

One need to remember the drop off point. And reverse that for homeward trip.

I felt pretty safe there in Paris and I met lots friendly and helpful people. 

Even late one night as I walked 20 minutes from the bus stop unlike all the scare “tactics” of well meaning family  and friends.

The streets there at saint Charles were wide and very well lit. It felt like walking in Melbourne.

Eiffel Tower somehow did not amaze me as much as the Duomo.

Neither is Arc de Triomphe.

The best about Paris is shopping, eating and better and more glittery evening version of the Eiffel Tower- Tour Eiffel.

Traveling the metro was easy, with willing help from commuters.

Final day on Paris, I took metro from Hotel du Parc SAINT CHARLES, to Champs Des elysees for a last try to fix mobile at Samsung super store though IN LIEU OF DISNEYLAND Paris.

Later took metro from Arc de Triomphe to RerA  then to RerB to Paris Cointrin airport.

I was in my hiking shorts, hiking shirt and my red big 65 litre back pack – retailers seem to be able to predict that I'm from Australia!

I only brought 2 sets of clothings to lighten my load.

Went in to Laduree – posh place right? The waiters there were snobbish and unwilling to serve this disheveled hiker from Australia and really taken aback when I paid with my Platinum Amex card.

23rd July reaching  Geneva
Bought a ticket from Paris to Geneva.
Free train transport from Geneva airport – ORY to Geneve only one stop.

Kind train conductor gave me another free ticket as I overshot Geneve to Nyon, thinking there  were 5 stops.

From there S L5 train go to Satigny station where Hadi Airbnb host picked me up from there just after 10pm.

Next morning went for a walk and found the Rhone river behind the property plus bus stop and jumped on this bus to Satigny station to Geneve for the day.

I left my big back pack at the station luggage storage and head off exploring Geneva in my day pack.

I Went to see  United nations building ( I think there should be more views with flags…anyway considered seen and the big chair!

Talked with the locals, and looking out for Chinese restaurants of course.

By then I'm very eager to eat rice like a true Chinese after 2 weeks in Europe.

Geneva is a rather Lovely city like little Paris. Lovely walk down Lac Leman, pass lots of chocolate shops, Swiss watch and designer brands.

I had Persian lamb shanks and 2 x tea.  38 Swiss francs - $56 Aussie! Everyone said it is more expensive in Switzerland and this proves the theory right.


24th of July

I knew by taking Saudia air means I will be flying with many burqua clad women. When in the queue , I was uncomfortable when one airline guy asked me to cover up my legs…

Hello!  That's my first instinct.. got no right to  say that!

Traveling with  Saudia air means 20hr flight time with 2 x layovers - Madinah and Jeddah.

Luckily I brought my arm warmers. I had to use my sarong for my legs as I was wearing a pair of shorts.

However, I survived scrutiny.  Different world while on transit in Jeddah. There was a female line and male line.

26th of July in Kuala Lumpur – I accepted my old phone is truly beyond repair.  By then I'm starting to miss my own bed and a place of familiarity. And life continues.